[from http://www.logicsouth.com/~lcoble/dir5/blackpo1.txt] Frugal, File #1 bp_info.txt Sources for Black Powder Supplies Equipment Sources Muzzle-loading Rifles & Pistols Cabela's (10/23/95) 812-13th Avenue Sidney, NE 69160 1-800-237-4444 Catalog: Free Cabela's brand (OEM'd by Investarms, Pedersoli, Pietta, Uberti)Lyman, Thompson Center, Lyman, CVA, Knight, Modern Muzzle-Loading Cape Outfitters, Inc. (10/24/95) 599 Co. Rd. 206 Dept. MB Cape Girardeau, MO 63701 (314) 335-6260 (314) 335-1555 - fax Catalog: Free Muzzleloading & breechloading firearms (IAB, Pedersoli) Cumberland Mountain Arms (02/27/96) P.O. Box 710 Winchester, TN 37398. (800) 797-8414 or (615) 967-8414 (615) 967-9199 Fax Leonard Day Jr. (02/12/96) Flagg Hill Rd Heath, MA 01346 (413) 337-8369 early Dutch and Spanish flintlock smoothbores Dixie Gun Works (10/23/95) Dept. 7 Union City, TN 38261 (800) 238-6785 Catalog: $5.00 (well worth the price) Extensive selection of many manufacturers Dixon Muzzleloading Shop, Inc. R. D. 1 Kempton, PA. 19529 610-756-6271 Supplies for the Hunter, Shooter and Builder, Custom Rifles, Hand Engraving, Repairs,Appraisals. Annual Gunmakers Fair - Last weekend in July. Don Ead's Muzzleloader Builder's Supply 332 Fairview Blvd. East Fairview, Tennessee 37062 615-799-2128, 615-799-9962 fax EMF (Early Modern Firearms) (02/06/96) 1900 E Warner Ave , Suite One D Santa Ana,CA 92705 (714) 261-6611 BP longarms & pistols, ML & Cartridge parts for Armi San Marco firearms Euroarms of America, Inc. (02/01/96) P.O. Box 32777 Dept BW Winchester, VA 22601 (703) 662-1863 Primarily wholesale of Civil War-era long arms and pistols Flintlocks Etc. (10/20/95) Richard Beauchamp P.O. 181 160 Rossiter Road Richmond, MA 01254 (413) 698-3822 Catalog: $4.00 Pedersoli and Navy Arms guns Gander Mountain, Inc. (10/23/95) Box 248, Hwy W Wilmot, WI 53192 1-800-558-9410 Catalog: Free Gander Mountain brand (OEM'd by Traditions) Traditions, Lyman, Thompson Center, Colt, Armsport, CVA, Knight Golden Age Arms Co. (12/12/95) 115 E. High St. Box 366 Ashley, OH 43003 (semi-custom long rifles?) Hatfield Gun Co. Ted & Ann Hatfield 224 N. 4th St. St Joseph, MO 64501 (816) 279-8688 Kennedy Firearms 10 N. Market Street Muncy, PA 17756 Lyman Products Corporation (10/20/95) Rt. 147 Middlefield, CT 06455 (800) 22-LYMAN (203) 349-3421 FAX 203-349-3586 Lyman Black-Powder rifles Mid South Shooter's Supply (10/23/95) P.O. BOX 2159 Clarksville, Tennessee 37042 1-800-272-3000 Monday-Friday 9-5:30 Eastern 1-615-503-8037 (fax) Catalog: Free (good prices on Lyman BP rifles) Mountain State Muzzleloading Rt 2, Box 154-1B Williamstown, WV 26187 (800) 445-1776 - orders only (304) 375-7842 - customer service (304) 375-3737 - fax Catalog: $4.00 Rifles, kits, buckskinning supplies Natchez Shooter's Supply (10/23/95) P.O. BOX 22247 Chattanooga, TN 37422 423-892-4482 (fax) 423-899-0499 (voice) 1-800-251-7839 (toll-free) Catalog: Free Thompson Center, Lyman, White, Knight Narragansett Arms, Ltd. (12/12/95) 3025 N. Meridian St. #801 Indianapolis, IN 46208 (Semi-Custom long rifles) Navy Arms Company Dept. MB 689 Bergen Blvd. Ridgefield, NJ 07657 (201) 945-2500 (201) 945-6859 (fax) Pecatonica River Long Rifle Supply Co. (12/12/95) PO Box 2791 Rockford, IL 61132 (Rifle Kits for long rifles) Regimental Quartermaster {NEED ADDRESS} PA (?) (215) 672-6891 The Rifle Shoppe (12/26/95) RT. 1 Box 82c Jones, OK 73049 (405) 396-2583 Tennesee Valley Manufacturing (12/6/95) Jack Garner P.O. Box 1175 Corinth, Mississippi 38834 Phone # (601)286-5014 Catalog: $3.00 (Fine semi-custom long rifles) Thompson Center Arms Co. (603) 332-2333 Manufacturer of T/C muzzleloaders Tools International (formerly Bison Mfg) (02/20/96) Rt 8, Box 323/ POB 903 Gilmer, TX 75644 903-734-7534 reproduction parts for single shot black powder rifles Track of the Wolf (02/26/96) Box Y Osseo, MN 55369 (612) 424-2500 (612) 424-9860 catalog $7.00, all 432 pages of it. Traditions, Inc. (11/16/95) (203) 526-9555 (203) 526-4564 Manufacturer of Traditions muzzleloaders Uberti USA 362 Limerock Rd. P.O. Box 469 Lakeville, CT 06039 Earl Williams (12/12/95) 1001 Obes Branch Rd. Sevierville, TN 37876 (beautiful,custom, and not inexpensive, long rifles) Yesteryear Armory & Supply (03/25/96) PO Box 408 Carthage, TN 37030 Period Clothing and Furnishings C&D Jarnagan Company Historical Supply (specify 18th Century Catalog) Route 3 Box 217 Corinth,MS 38834 601-287-4977 FAX 601-287-6033 Canvas Cabins (10/26/95) Estacada, Oregon 800-231-3546 Canvas Wall tents Denver Buffalo Company (11/6/95) 1120 Lincoln Street Denver, CO 80203-9790 1-800-BUY-BUFF Buffalo parts (meat, skulls, hides, etc.) Dixie Gun Works (10/23/95) Dept. 7 Union City, TN 38261 (800) 238-6785 Catalog: $5.00 (well worth the price) Hunters Lodge Corporation (11/3/95) Waterfork Road Industrial Plaza Ethridge, Tenn 38456 (615) 766-0755 (615) 762-6881 fax WARNING: Hunters Lodge has a reputation for poor customer service and sub-standard merchandise. From personal experience, I do not recommend doing business with them. Jas. Townsend & Son, Inc., PO Box 415-W, Pierceton, IN 46562 Phone: 1-219-594-5852 FAX: 1-219-594-5580 email jastown@halcyon.com Web site: http://www.jastown.com/townsend/ Catalog: $2.00 Karl Wilburn (02/02/96) 5073 Townsley Road Cedarville, Oh 45314 Custom powder horns to your specifications/price range. Also kits and instructions to DIY Mark Toigo (02/02/96) Lake City, FL Custom powder horns to your specifications/price range Any period, any color, engraved or scrimshawed (904) 755-3198 (904) 752-8039 (904) 397-6720 Lehman's Hardware & Appliance (11/28/95) One Lehman Circle, P.O. Box 41 Kidron, OH 44636 (330) 857-5757 (330) 857-5785 fax E-Mail: 73734,3607@compuserve.com Catalog: $3.00 Purveyors of old-fashioned tools, housewares, etc. Large selection of cast-iron and enameled-steel cookware. October Country (02/07/96) P.O. Box 969 Hayden, Idaho 83835 (208)-772-2068 (800) 735-6348 for orders, catalog $3.00. Powder horns, priming horns, kits also River Junction Trade Co. Jim Boeke 312 Main St. McGregor, IA 52157 Phone (319) 873-2387. Very inexpensive glasses for 1800 era A Stitch in Time (02/07/96) P.O. Box 1268 Salida, Ca 95368 Attn: Debra Period clothing patterns (?) Tidy's Storehouse 1102 Hopewell Road Oxford, PA 19363-1149 TX orders 1-800-826-7771 Track of the Wolf (02/26/96) Box Y Osseo, MN 55369 (612) 424-2500 (612) 424-9860 catalog $7.00, all 432 pages of it. Winchester Sutler 270P Shadow Brook Lane Winchester, VA 22603 (540) 888-3595 (540) 888-4632 FAX General Shooting Supplies Buffalo Arms Company (12/26/95) 123 S. Third Avenue Suite 6 Sandpoint, ID 83864 (208) 263-6953 (voice) (208) 265-2096 (fax) Brass, , reloading dies, bullet moulds, Riflesmith and MVA sights, etc. Butler Enterprises (03/21/96) Gary Butler, Proprietar 834 Oberting Road Lawrenceburg, IN, 47025 (812) 537-3584 Circle Fly shotgun wads GAR (04/01/96) 590 McBride Ave. West Paterson, NJ 07424 (201)754-1114 or (201)742-2897 (Reloading supplies, Lyman & Redding-Saeco) Lock Stock and Barrel Shooting Supply (11/30/95) West Highway 20 Drawer B Valentine, NE 69201 402-376-2203 402-376-1442 fax 800-228-7925 orders only Mid South Shooter's Supply (10/23/95) P.O. BOX 2159 Clarksville, Tennessee 37042 1-800-272-3000 Monday-Friday 9-5:30 Eastern 1-615-503-8037 (fax) Catalog: Free (good prices on Lyman BP rifles) Natchez Shooter's Supply (10/23/95) P.O. BOX 22247 Chattanooga, TN 37422 615-892-4482 or 423-892-4482 (fax) 615-899-0499 or 423-899-0499 (voice) 1-800-251-7839 (toll-free) Catalog: Free Thompson Center, Lyman, White, Knight Warren Muzzleloading Co. (03/15/96) Ozone, Arkansas (501) 292-3268 Roundballs in just about every size and increment. Materials for Gunmaking Locks Stocks Delta Gun Shop WA {NEED ADDRESS/PHONE} Groff & Hearne Lumber 858 Scotland Road Quarryville, PA 17566 (717) 284-0001 supplier for cherry/walnut/etc. Woodcraft (12/03/95) 800 535-4482 Good source for pure Tung Oil Barrels / Barrel Blanks Getz Barrel Co. (02/01/96) Box 88 Beavertown, PA 17813 (717) 658-7263 Ron Smith Box 635 Wimborne, Alberta Canada T0M 2G0 (403) 631-2405 cut rifled barrel with gain-twist rifling. Building Your Own Barrel Drilling & Rifling Machine (12/08/95) Video & Booklet Guy Lautard 2570 Rosebury Ave. West Vancouver, BC V7V 2Z9 1-604-992-4909 for additional information. Chemicals Laurel Mountain Forge P.O. Box 224 Romeo, MI 48065 Ol' Thunder Mfg (01/23/96) 3120 John Olsen Ave. Hillsboro OR 97124 Manufacturer of Ol' Thunder browning solution Wahkon Bay Outfitting Co. (01/23/96) "Tru-Brown" slow-process browning formula (available thru The Log Cabin Shop) Homer Dangler's Browning Solution (01/25/96) c/o Homer Dangler Box 254 Addison, MI 49220 Propellants Black Powder Bowdoin Explosives Inc. RFD #1 Box 1799 Litchfield, ME 04350 (207) 737-2630 Call for pricing Elephant Brand BP Up to 50 lb. shipped to your door via UPS Back Creek Gun Shop John or Rose 703-888-3349 (voice) Near Gainesboro, VA Directions: >From D.C. area: Route 50 West to Route 37 North(?) to 522 North, go 7.5 miles on 522, cross over Hog Creek, right on Route 681, 1.25 miles on Route 681 to Myer's Lane, 1st house on left. Located near the North-South Skirmish Association site. The shop is only open on weekends when there is a shoot at N-SSA, or call for an appointment. Retail Sales and Mail Order (also carry percussion caps) GOEX Black Powder (in grades Cannon, Cartridge, and Fg-FFFFg) Elephant Black Powder (in grades Fg-FFFFg) Coonie's (Goex) Black Powder (04/01/96) P.O. Box 2062 Hobbs, NM 88240 (800) 713-6321 (505) 393-0166 or (505) 393-4007 (505) 393-6060 Fax Gordon Wilson Jenks & Co. 104 Glenwood Drive Westfield, MA 01085 800-835-7933 (voice) 413-562-4980 (fax) J&J Pyrotechnics Manufacturing. RR #3, Box 3367G Moscow, PA 18444 717-342-0505 or 717-961-5904 Fax 717-842-1206 ----------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Upper Missouri Trading Co. (04/01/96) Box 191-C Crofton, NE 58730 (402)388-4844 (Elephant Brand Black Powder Distributor) BLACK POWDER TYPES Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 21:25:05 -0500 (EST) From: murr rhame Subject: Black Powder types and grain sizes The primary difference between FA and Fg type powders is processing. Both powders begin as milled "meal" powder. The potassium nitrate, charcoal and sulfur are milled into an extremely fine powder. This milling process takes many hours and is usually done by remotely operated equipment due to the inherent danger of the process. The meal powder is consolidated under high pressure into a "mill cake" or "press cake" of solid Black Powder. Powerful hydraulic presses are often used to press the meal into cake. The cake is then dried, and crushed into grains. The cake crushing process is called corning. Both types are then screened to remove fines and to grade the grain sizes. Blasting "A" type powders are not usually tumbled. If they are tumbled, it is just for a short time to knock off any sharp and long projections. Sporting "g" type powders are tumbled a with a tiny amount of graphite to polish the grains. The base formula is the same. The graphite is not part of the basic Black Powder formula. The graphite does act as a burn rate modifier. The trace of graphite slows the burn rate slightly. Grain sizes are different for sporting and blasting Black Powder. Sporting Grade Black Powder - "g" type powders Whaling 32/64" mesh 3% held 4 mesh 12% pass Life Saving 6 mesh 3% held 12 mesh 12% pass Cannon 6 mesh 3% held 12 mesh 12% pass Saluting 10 mesh 3% held 20 mesh 12% pass Fg 12 mesh 3% held 16 mesh 12% pass FFg 16 mesh 3% held 30 mesh 12% pass FFFg 20 mesh 3% held 50 mesh 12% pass FFFFg 40 mesh 3% held 100 mesh 12% pass FFFFFg ( no longer manufactured by Goex) For a given grain size, the blasting powder burns faster than the graphite inhibited sporting powder. Blasting powder is less dense due to the more irregular shapes occupying more volume for a given weight of powder. Blasting Powder has a lot of rough edges. Both the lower density and the greater surface area promote faster burning. Dry Powder (Waterproof Priming Powder) On the hunting news group, the following was posted: In response to a few inquiries about the "Drypowder" blackpowder waterproofing compound I had mentioned in an earlier posting, my rapidly failing memory finally jogged itself into remembering to locate the bottle. I purchased this powder maybe 10 or 15 years ago so I can not give you any assurances that the address listed is still valid but for what it is worth, the address for the manufacturer of "Drypowder" is: LA CHUTE LTD. P.O. Box 48 Br. Masury, Ohio 44438 Another source of "Powder Dry" is Antique Gun Parts Inc. 1118 South Braddock Ave. Pittsburgh, Pa. 15218 (412) 241-1811. Black Powder Substitutes Pyrodex Pyrodex is the original BP substitute powder manufactured by Hogdon Powder company. The general consensus seems to be that Pyrodex is essentially BP that has modified with the addition of compounds that retard flammability and decrease of the amount of gross residue (fouling) as compared with BP. Generally, shooters using Pyrodex need to swab their bores less frequently when shooting successive rounds. Although the fouling left by Pyrodex is less than that of BP, the fouling is still corrosive and must be removed before storing the firearm. Pyrodex is often more- readily available than true BP because, unlike BP which is classified as an explosive in certain quantities, Pyrodex is classified by ATF and DOT as a propellant. Pyrodex is harder to ignite than true BP, so is not generally suitable for flintlocks. Pyrodex is available in three granulations "P" (equivalent to FFFg), "R/S" (equivalent to FFg), and "Cartridge" (equivalent to somewhere between FFg & FFFg). Black Canyon Powder Black Canyon Powder is another substitute for Black Powder. BC contains no sulfur, is less corrosive, and can be cleaned with plain water. Used weight-for-weight as a substitute for BP, BC requires that loads be VERY firmly compressed. The concensus seems to be that in its original (current) formulation, BC is better suited to BPCR firearms than muzzleloaders. The addresses below are for the manufacturer and their East Coast master distributor, BC can also be purchaased through catalog outlets such as Gander Mountain and Cabela's. Legend Products Corporation (10/25/95) 1555 E. Flamingo Road Suite 404 Las Vegas, NV 89119 (702) 228-1808 Black Canyon Powder Manufacturer New England Powder Distributors (10/25/95) 52 Phelps Street Marlboro, MA 01752 (508) 485-3957 Black Canyon Powder Master Distributor Roll Your Own - Home Manufacture of BP (Under Construction) Major Cautionary Note: I am including this section with mixed emotions. I am a life-long proponent of free-speech and personal liberty (and resposibility) and firmly believe that the mere dissemination of information, even information that contains the potential for abuse, does not precipitate acts of malice (or stupidity). The relatively simple chemistry behind explosives or nerve gas did not cause the recent tragedies in Oklahoma City or Tokyo. These outrages were perpetrated by evil persons with no respect for the community of Man and the rule of law. With these precepts in mind, I am including this discussion of the "home" manufacture of black powder. If you choose to attempt the manufacture of Black Powder, or any explosive, remember the following rules: 1. Don't do it! 2. Making explosives without proper Federal, State, and Local approval is ILLEGAL. 3. Amateur manufacture of explosives can lead to sudden, premature blindness, deafness, or DEATH for the chemist and/or his loved ones, neighbors, or others within close proximity. 4. If you do blow yourself up, and somehow survive, take some personal responsibilty and have the decency not to sue the manufacturer, distributor, or retailer of the materials you used. Chemical Suppliers: Brownell's Inc. (11/21/95) Montezuma, IA. 25 lb pail of KNO3 (potassium nitrate) for $32.95 Catalog item #082-090-020. (515) 623-5401. Projectiles Hardness of Lead Alloys I don't know if any of you need this but the following BHN hardness info came with a new 450 gr .500 cal mould I bought. Percent of these Alloy lead tin antimony BHN Monotype 72 9 19 28 Stereotype 80 6 14 23 Linotype 84 4 12 22 Lyman #2 90 5 5 15 Taracorp Magnum 92 2 6 15 1:1 lead/lino 92 2 6 15 Electrotype 94.5 3 2.5 12 10:1 91 9 0 11.5 16:1 94 6 0 11 20:1 95 5 0 10 30:1 97 3 0 9 Wheelweights 95.5 .5 4 9 40:1 97.5 2.5 0 8.5 Pure lead 100 0 0 5 Bullet Lubricants Composition of Extensively Used Bullet Lubricants E.H. Harrison American Rifleman, July, 1965 U.S. Army 1855 - 1 beeswax, 3 tallow. U.S. Army 1861 - 8 beeswax, 1 tallow. U.S. Army 1873 - 8 bayberry wax, 1 graphite. U.S. Army 1880 and thereafter - Japan wax. Sharps Rifle Co., 1878 - 1 beeswax, 2 sperm oil. Massachusetts Arms Co. (Maynard rifle), 1890 - 1 beeswax, 3 tallow. Marlin Firearms Co., 1891 - 1 beeswax, 4 tallow. Smith & Wesson, 1891 - tallow. H.M. Pope, about 1900 - 3 mutton tallow, 2 bay wax, 1 beeswax, 1steam cylinder oil, .2 of 1 Acheson graphite. The bay wax could be omitted. Automobile door latch stick lubricant, U.S. Patent 1,920,161 (1931) - 5 paraffin wax, 3 petroleum jelly, 2 oil. A large police department, 1962 - 1 beeswax, 1 paraffin wax, 1cosmoline. Notes: "Cosmolene" in this context refers to dark petrolatum with no anti-corrosion additives. Refined yellow petrolatum (petroleum jelly, Vaseline) may be substituted. Any mixture containing paraffin wax *must* include a plasticizer, such as petrolatum. Microcrystalline petroleum waxes may be used as-is. The 1:3 beeswax/tallow mixture (or any composition composed mainly of tallow) is probably the most traditional choice for "primitive" shooters. The 8:1 mixture is rather stiff, and better suited to conicals, paper cartridges, and the like. For paper-patched bullets, I'd be inclined to try the Sharps formula, substituting Dexron II/III automatic transmission fluid for the sperm oil. SPG Lubricant Mike Venturino and Steve Garbe Box 761 Livingston, MT 59047 (406)222-8416 TC Bore-Butter I use only TC Bore Butter for patch lube, TC Bore Cleaner for cleaning, and sometimes hot water. It is vital that there is no petroleum residue or oil in the bore at any time. The fouling left over after bp ignition create tar-like residues when in the presence of petroleum products. This tarry residue hardens quickly, causing difficulty in loading. I start out with a clean, dry bore. Since I lube the bore with Bore Butter between sessions, it's just a matter of running a couple of dry patches down the bore before loading. Then, each shot I use 20 gr 3F and a mattress ticking patch *well-saturated* with Bore butter. About every fifth shot, I'll run a BB lubed patch down the bore to mop up the excess fouling, which remains soft and loose. After about 20 shots, I'll mop up with 2 or 3 patches *dampened* with TC Bore Cleaner, followed by a couple dry patches, pop a cap, and another dry patch. This regimen gets me through extended firing sessions of fifty shots or so. I do not hesitate to leave the gun loaded for extended periods when I use Bore Butter, since it has no effect on the powder. When I pack up to go home, I run a couple more *damp* TC Bore Cleaner patches down the bore, and let it work till I'm home, showered, fed and rested. I then finish up with TC Bore Cleaner and sometimes hot water, but not so often as I used to. When the bore is clean and dry, I run several patches *saturated* with Bore Butter down the bore, wipe the used patches over the barrel and stock, and store the folded patch over the nipple. I repeat with BB saturated patches for the next two nights. I have never had any problems with rust, corrosion, or excess fouling using this method. After about 3 or 4 sessions like this, the bore 'seasons' like a cast-iron frying pan, and cleaning becomes simpler each time. The key is to remove all traces of petroleum-based lubricants from the bore. Hot water is best when you are cleaning all the oily residue out of a gun before using my Bore Butter method. Swabbing out with denatured alcohol will remove oils quickly. I don't recommend acetone due to its toxicity. This has worked well for me on a dozen or so different guns. The seasoning will not 'take' with Pyrodex, so I don't recommend its usage. This has worked well for me. Comments are always welcome. BPCR- Black Powder Catridge Rifles & Components Rifles / Actions Bison Mfg (see Tools International) Buffalo Arms Company 123 S. Third Avenue, Suite 6 Sandpoint, Idaho 83864 (208) 263-6953 (208) 265-2096 fax Hunters Lodge Corporation (11/3/95) Waterfork Road Industrial Plaza Ethridge, Tenn 38456 (615) 766-0755 (615) 762-6881 fax Surplus rifles and actions WARNING: Hunters Lodge has a reputation for poor customer service and sub-standard merchandise. From personal experience, I do not recommend doing business with them. Lone Star Rifle Co. Dave Higgenbotham - Proprietor Rt. 22, Box 760 11231 Rose Rd. Conroe, TX 77303 (409) 856-3363 (100% American Made authentic Reproductions of Remington Creedmoor) Catalogue $3.00. S.D. Meacham Tool & Hardware Co. Inc. 1070 Angel Ridge Rd Peck, ID 83545 (208)486-7171 (Repro Highwall Rfiles) Steve Meacham-Proprietor Cumberland Mountain Arms (10/20/95) P.O. Box 710 Winchester, TN 37398 (615) 967-8414 Winchester Highwall kit for $330 CPA Corporation (03/03/96) ATTN: Paul Shuttleworth 2071 Squirrel Hill Rd Schwenksville, PA 19473 Cape Outfitters, Inc. (10/24/95) 599 Co. Rd. 206 Dept. MB Cape Girardeau, MO 63701 (314) 335-6260 (314) 335-1555 - fax Catalog: Free Muzzleloading & breechloading firearms (IAB, Pedersoli) Sharps ML & BL kits (IAB/EMF) The Riflesmith, Inc. (04/01/96) Axtell Rifle Co. 353 Mill Creek Road Sheridan, MT 59749 (406)842-5814 (1877 Sharps Repro + authentic repros of tang and wind guage sights) Rifle Works & Armory (04/01/96) 707 12th Street Cody, Wyoming 82414 (307) 587-4914 Ballard rifle repros, obsolete brass. Catalog $3.00 Shiloh Rifle Manufacturing Co. (04/01/96) P.O. Box 279 Big Timber, MT 59011 (406) 932-4454 Catalog $4.00 (Sharps rifle reproductions) Tools International (formerly Bison Mfg) (02/20/96) Rt 8, Box 323/ POB 903 Gilmer, TX 75644 903-734-7534 Investment cast actions and parts for Win Hiwalls, Ballards Stevens 44 1/2, Rem #1, Hepburn #3s, Farquahrson, Sharps '74 & '78 Sights Lee Shaver (03/11/96) 559 N.W. 7th Road Iantha, MO 64759 (417) 682-3330 Modifies Dixie, Cape Outfitters, Navy, EMF, etc. tang sights to the Soule type windage adjustable sights for $50 (or will supply and modify the sight for $90) MVA Corp. 2354 Bear Canyon Road Bozeman, MT 59715 (406) 388-4027 Mid America Recreation (03/28/96) 1328 5th Ave. Moline. IL 61265 (309) 764-5089. Montana Vintage Arms (03/26/96) 2354 Bear Canyon Road Dept. SPG Bozeman, MT 59715 (406) 388-4027 Daytime (406) 587-1339 Evening (406) 388-6503 FAX Reproduction tang sights, front sights, Accessories The Rifle Smith 353 Mill Creek Road Sheridan, MT 59749 (406) 842-5814 Mike Newman (12/5/95) M.N. Objective Alignment Instrument Co. 95 Fitterweg, Cress Lawn, Kempton Park, 1619 Republic of South Africa Maker of precision long-range sights Frank Zika (moulds Inc.) 7375 Prescott Lane La Grange, IL 60525 (708) 354-7434 Mike Stevens (03/28/96) Rt. 1 Box 307C Effort, PA 18330 (215) 681-5670 Barrels/Re-Barreling Badger Barrels (03/11/96) 8404 196 th Ave. Bristol, WI 53104 (414) 857-6950 Bud Welch (01/25/96) 80 New Road E.Amherst, NY 14051 (716) 688-6344 Beineke Gun Shop (01/25/96) 4520 Anderson Klamath Falls, OR 97603 (503) 882-3371 Verl Sigman (01/25/96) 504 Cedar, Box 202 Cabool, MO 65689 (417) 962-4801 Schuetzen Gun Co. (01/25/96) P.O.Box 272113 Ft. Collins, CO (970) 223-3678 Ron Dilliott (01/25/96) 657 Scarlet Road Dandridge, TN 37725 (615) 397-9204 Crossno Gun Service (01/25/96) P.O. Box 26 Dibble, OK 73031 (405) 344-7410 James Pickup (01/25/96) P.O. Box 2316 Winterville, NC 28590 (919) 321-8408 Bryan Burgin (01/25/96) RD 1, Box 66 Sidney Center, NY 13839 (607) 829-8668 The Custom Shop (12/11/95) Dave 315-986-1717 Walworth, NY. Stocks Reinhart Fajen Inc. Rt. 1, Box 214A Lincoln, MO 65338 (816) 547-3006 Obsolete, Hard-to-Find Brass Jim Bell (formerly of ElDorado Cartridge) 1-702-362-5043 Buffalo Arms Company(11/20/95) Dave Gullo 123 S. Third Avenue, Suite 6 Sandpoint, ID 83864 (208) 263-6953 ph 208-263-6953 fax 208-265-2096 Gramp's Antique Cartridges Elwood Epp, owner and operator PO Box 341 Washego, Ontario, Canada L0K 2B0 (705) 689-5348 Huntington's 1-916-534-1210 Lock Stock & Barrel Shooting Supply West Highway 20 Drawer B Valentine, Nebraska 69201 (402) 376-2203 (402) 376-1442 fax (800) 228-7925 orders only MAST Technology, Inc. (11/16/95) 4350 S. Arville, #3 Las Vegas, NV 89103 702-362-5043 (Former principals of B.E.L.L. Brass) Old Western Scrounger (10/30/95) 12924 Hwy A12 Montague, CA 96064 1-800-UPS-AMMO 916-459-3944 - fax http://www.snowcrest.net/oldwest/main.html Catalog: $4.00 Old West Shooters Supply (11/27/95) Attn: Pete (605) 341-3785 Precision Ammunition (03/19/96) Bryan, TX (800) 347-3833 Rifle Works and Armory (11/17/95) Cody, WY (?) (307) 587-4914 Samco Global Arms (11/16/95) (800) 554-1618. SARCO (11/16/95) (908) 647-3800 Shiloh Creek (04/01/96) Box 357 Cottleville, MO 63338 (314) 447-2900 Voice/Fax BP cleaning solvents, drop tubes, accessories, shooting boxes, etc. Donald E. Snyderburn (11/17/95) 1106 Doris Avenue Tavares, Florida 32778 904-343-6266 (anytime) Loading Equipment C/H Tool & Die - 4-D Custom Die Owner: Dave Davison 711 N. Sandusky, Box 889 Mt. Vernon, OH 43050 (614) 397-7214 (614) 397-6600 Cal-Graf (04/01/96) P.O. Box 306 8 Mallard Springs Big Timber, MT 59011 1-800-367-5203 (Custom cartridge boxes, shooting boxes for BPCR) Bullet Moulding & Swaging products Brooks Tru-Bore Bullet Moulds (04/01/96) P.O. Box 105 Big Timber, MT 59011 (406)932-5114 Lathe-bored custom moulds, also fine damascus knives Bruin Bullet Company M Hilliard 3712 Main St. Walworth, NY 14568 (315) 986-8811 BruinMail@aol.com Colorado Shooter's Supply (04/01/96) P.O. Box 132 Fruita, CO 81521 (303)[or 970?]858-9191 Hoch custom nose-pour molds The Custom Shop (01/23/96) Walworth, NY (315) 986-1717 Saboted lead bullets for ML's, Pre- Cut, and templates for, paper patches Paul Jones Moulds (04/01/96) 4901 Telegraph Road Los Angeles, CA 90022 (213)262-1510 Fax (213)262-4992 (Custom lathe bored moulds) Lyman Products Corporation (10/20/95) Rt. 147 Middlefield, CT 06455 (800) 22-LYMAN (203) 349-3421 FAX 203-349-3586 Lyman Bullet Moulds & Casting Equipment NEI Handtools Inc. (11/09/95) Walt Melander 51583 Columbia River Hwy Scappoose, OR 97056 (503) 543-6776 (503) 543-6799 (fax) Bullet moulds On-line catalog: http://WWW.SHOOTERS.COM/cgi- win/MANU.EXE/MANU004A.HTM Rapine Bullet Mould Mfg. R.D. #1 Box 1119 BW East Greenville, PA 18041 Catalog: $2.00 Fowler Bullets (11/08/95) 806 Dogwood Drive Gastonia, NC 28054 (704) 867-3259 Lead wire for swaging bullets Berger Bullets, Ltd. (11/08/95) 5342 W. Camelback Road, Suite 200, Glendale, AZ 85301 (602) 842-4001 Source for swaged lead cores Corbin Swage dies (??) JAuthur S. Green (11/3/95) Metal refinery Beverly Hills, CA. Virgin lead wire in 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 2/5, 1/2, and 5/8 inch dia. (310) 274-1283. Special Products & Services Cryo Barrel Stress Relief (10/24/95) Division of 300 Below Inc. 1160 South Monroe Decatur, ILL 62521 (217) 423-3070 cryogenic treatments for barrels Lead Bullet Technology Veral Smith (10/26/95) H.C.R. 62, Box 145 Moyie Springs, ID 83345 (208) 267-3588 Fire-Lapping kits BP to Cartridge Conversions for Pistols John Gren (10/26/95) 6403 N. Howard Spokane, WA 99208 (509) 467-5502 Ken Howell (10/26/95) R&D Gun Shop 5728 East Country Road X Beloit, WI 53511 (608) 676-5628 Barrel Reaming/Freshening Bob Hoyt Box 21 RD1 Fairfield, PA 17320 717-642-8736 717-642- 6696 (?) (reccomended by Chuck Dixon) General Gunsmithing Bowen Classic Arms (02/21/96) Hamilton Bowen, Proprietor P.O. Box 67 Louisville, TN 37777 (615) 984 3583 Ruger pistolsmith Burgin's Gun Shop (03/11/96) Bryan Burgin RD #1, Box 66 Sidney Center, NY 13839 (607) 829-8668 Quality Restoration of Single Shot Rifles and High Grade Shotguns Trigger Replacement / Tuning Hall Sharon (03/28/96) 20137 Waif Mine Rd. Sonora, CA 95370 (209) 532-2520 set triggers for BPCR Rodney Storie (03/27/96) C/O Bison Manufacturing 100-A N. Louisa St Shawnee OK 74801 (405) 275-4477 set triggers for BPCR Bob Roller (03/27/96) (304)429-2454 SST and DST for Rem RB's (?) Paper Cartridge Making I came across this in "The Muzzle Loading Cap Lock Rifle" by Ned Roberts. As there was a recent message regarding paper cartridges, I thought it might be as interesting to some of you as it was to me. Mr. Roberts describes how he made & used them for his muzzle loading guns. Pages 153-155 "First a hardwood cylinder about 6 inches long was turned and smoothed in a lathe, with a diameter about .012 or.014 inch smaller than the bore of the rifle measured on top of the lands. A piece of wrapping paper about .003 inch thick by 3 1/2 inches long was rolled tightly around this cylinder and marked at the point where it made two complete laps. Then the paper was cut off at this point, unrolled and placed on a piece of tin, which was then cut to the same shape and size to serve as a pattern for cutting a supply of these pieces of paper for making the "tubes" for these cartridges. By use of this tin pattern and a sharp knife, 6 or 8 thicknesses of wrapping paper could be cut at once into rectangular pieces about 2 1/8 inches wide by 3 1/2 long (.30 cal rifle). A piece of this paper was tightly rolled around the wooden cylinder and the edge pasted down with gum arabic mucilage; then this paper tube was carefully slipped off the clyinder and set aside to dry while making other similar tubes. After a supply of these tubes had been made, one was slipped back onto the wooden cylinder nearly to the end and a round ball with the sprue end up was placed inside the tube which projected over the ball about 3/8 inch. This end was then twisted and tied with a piece of white thread, and the cylinder withdrawn leaving the ball in the front end of the tube. With a proper size steel wad-cutter, we cut from an old hat a quantity of felt wads which were then soaked in a hot mixture of beeswax and sperm oil, then dried for about 24 hours. Afther the ball had been secured in the front end of the paper tube, one of these lubricated felt wads was placed in the tube and carefully pushed down onto the ball; then we poured a measured charge of powder into the tube behind the wad and bullet, and finished the cartridge by twisting the end of the paper cylinder together and tying it with a piece of red thread. Then with a small brush, we applied a light coat of the melted beeswax mixture to the front end of the cartridge in which the ball was held, in order to facilitate loading and take the place of the usual oiled cloth patch. When loading the rifle, one of the cartridges was taken from the cartridge box, or hunting bag, the end that was tied with the RED thread was grasped in the teeth, the end of the paper torn off, the powder poured down the bore, and the rest of the cartridge pushed down onto the powder with the ramrod. Placing a cap on the nipple completed the loading, which by the use of this home-made cartridge could be done more rapidly than when using the loose powder, patch and ball separately. When loading these cartridges with the conical bullet for this rifle, the end of the tube was attached with gum arabic mucilage to the base of the bullet and dried with the point of the bullet extending from the tube instead of having the paper tube tied over it, and the rest of the process of loading the cartridge was as above explained. In this same way, the the use of a larger wooden cylinder and larger pieces of wrappping paper, I loaded hundreds of cartridges with different sizes of shot for my 14 gauge double barreled shotgun and seldom used the loose powder and shot." **snip** On a similar subject, does anyone have a template or instructions for paper-patching the .45-110 or .45-120 metalic cartridge [ 540gr conical ] ? I had my 1874 Sharps' chamber rebored to accept paper-patched bullets. Lou- Cut a piece of paper wide enough to cover the body of the bullet along its long axis. It should go up to and include the first part of the ogive, and leave enough over hang on the base to secure the the base later. The exact amount will vary depending on whether you plan to fold the paper flat over the base, tuck it into a hollow cavity or twist it into a tail. The paper should be long enough to wrap three times around the bullet shank. Dampen the paper and wrap it using the same tension you would use for wrapping the finished patch. Take a razor blade and slice through all the layers at about a 45 degree angle, leaving part of the width of the patch uncut so that the sections do not separate. Unwrap the paper. There should be three slices through the paper. The two outer slices represent the outside boundry of a patch that will wrap exactly two times around your bullet with the ends butting together, not overlapping and making a ridge in the wrap. Lay the paper carefully on a piece of sheet metal (I use 1/16 inch brass) and carefully mark these two outside boundries. Use a machinests angle to lay out a 45 degree line from these marks and then saw and file the patch guide out of the sheet. I cut the paper to the correct width with a paper cutter and as long as the sheet permits. Six or eight of these strips can be put under the patch cutter guide at a time and the correct length and angle of the patch cut with a sharp utility knife. I like to have the grain of the paper running parallel to the long axis of the bullet. BTW the easy way to tell which way the grain runs is to tear a piece of the paper. It will tear straight and true with the grain but will run off at an angle when torn across the grain. I hope this helps. For paper I use 20 pound Cranes 100% rag paper. However there are many differing opinions on the correct paper and recently I've seen 9 pound onion skin typing paper highly recommended. You will have to experiment to see which paper and what thickness works best for you and your rifle. This is the fun part ;-) Ward Tanning This is another of Aunt Charlotte's old time ways. Indian Elkin was a white pioneer who came to Oregon in the very early days before the fisrt wagon train. Men like him who had taken Indian women for wives were call Squaw Men. I could cure a buckskin quite as well as anyone. Mother was very good at it and I always helped her. Once, Indian Elkin's wife gave me a fawn's hide and helped me to cure it after the Indian fashion. It was a long, tedious process, and took me several days, even after I had soaked it for a week or more. Elkin's tepee was down by the Wet Weather Spring, so Nancy had me scrape a hole in the soft mud and bury the hide. I weighted it down with stones and the water seeped in and covered it over. I do not remember exactly how long I left it in the mud, though I went to it now and then and lifted it out to see if the hair was beginning to "slip. " At last Nancy said it was ready. I took it out and spread it hair sideup on the hard ground. With Nancy's help, I stretched it as tightly as I could and fastened it all around the edge with wooden pegs driven firmly into the ground. Then, while it was still wet and muddy, I scraped it with the dull-edged stone that Nancy kept for that purpose. I scraped and scraped till the hair was all off of it, then we tumed it and I scrap the flesh side even harder than the other---scrap it till every pulpy fiber was gone. Then I scraped at the thicker places till it was all as smooth as a freshly peeled sapling and quite as slick as one. (It was not nice to work at, I expect, though I do not remember that I minded. It just does not sound nice as I tell it now.) I did exactly as Nancy directed. She had me wash and rinse and wring and twist. Then she had me wash and rinse it again, over and over, working it with my hands till they were blistered. When it was white and clean, she gave me the brains that she had saved and dried when the fawn was killed, and showed me how to work the pulpy mass into the wet skin. It lathered in the warm water exactly as soap would, and served quite the same purpose without injuring the hide. I spent a day in working the brains into every fiber ot it, then rinsed it many times, twisting and rubbing it all Ihe while. Then I worked it from time to time while it was slowly drying in a cool, shady place under the trees. At last it was dry, and soft as a kitten's ear. Nancy had me build a tiny frame of twigs. The ends. stuck in the ground formed a circle around a small pit. The pit was perhaps a foot deep, and I had kindled a smudge in it and heaped it with dry rotten wood. (Rotten wood will smoke, but will not blaze.) When my smudge was well started, I tied the twigs together at the top exactly as though I were building a toy tepee. When the fawn's hide was stretched over the frame and pinned firmly in place with thorns from a haw bush, it was quite as complete looking as the tepee that Nancy herself lived in. I would liked to have kept it exactly as it was, but Nancy was to made me a pair of moccasins out of the skin, and I knew that she had her heart set on it. It was to pay for something that I had done for her so it would never do for me to say anything. From time to time I unpinned the hide and turned it so that it would smoke evenly and not stripe where the twigs had kept the smoke from it. It was then turned to the other side and shifted about till every inch of it was as brown as Nancy's own skin (perhaps not quite so brown but nealy so). Walt Davies Monmouth, Or. ------------------------------ Firemaking Flint & Steel Hi, I thought that you guys might like this, I took it from my Aunt Charlotte's book INTO THE EYE OF THE SETTING SUN. She lived from 1838 to 1926 and wrote the book after the turn of the century. She talks mostly about the time period 1842 to 1852 in Oregon. It was still quite remote in those early days and the first white folks who came here to trap were for the most part good freinds of her and my family. She tells a lot about how life was in those early days on the frontier. Kindling a fire was quite a differant matter from what it is these days. Matches were unheard of when I was a little girl. They may have had such things where civilization was, but they were unknown to us. The usual way to start a fire was to rub a bit of (gun) powder into some lint or shreds of tow--- the coarse and broken part of flax or hemp. A piece of cotton rag would do quite nicely, but rags of any kind were very scarce. The rag or tow was held against a piece of flint in the left hand, while the right hand held a piece of steel. The trick in starting a fire was to strike the flint with the steel in such a way that the resulting spark would explode the grains of powder on the rag. Sometimes in place of rag or lint or tow, we used the flakes of punk, light as thistledown, that we took from rotting logs. ("Spunk" I called it, til long after I was old enough to have known better.) As I tell it now, starting a fire with flint and steel sounds very simple, but it was really quite a trick. I found it easier to just sprinkle some powder on a rag and lay it on the lid of a Dutch oven and give the lid a bit of a tap with the butcher knife---not too hard, just a glancing blow made careless-like---and pouff ...! you could start as good a fire anyone could wish for. I do not know if I could do it now, I fancy I could though, for I know exactly how it is done. Another way to start was to place a bit of rag in a gun barrel and ram it in on a small charge of powder, then shoot it onto the ground. It would come out a blazing ball of fire, and with kindling handy, there was a fine fire for anyone who chose to do it that way. It was not considered a very skillful method though, and was used mostly by those to clumsy to handle a flint and steel, Besides that, the gun barrel must be carefully wiped out afterwords. I've seen old women who smoked pipes carry a ball of fire in their pockets, and I've seen many a patch in a calico skirt that marked the place where a pocket hung. They would take a long, narrow strip of cotton cloth, get one end well alight and charred, then wrap the strip of cloth into a tight ball with the smoldering end in the center. This ball could be unrolled from time to time as a light was needed, then rewrapped to be returned to the pocket. This did very well if one was not too forgetful; otherwise, a patch, sometimes even a poultice was apt to be needed. My old Aunt Rachel smoked a pipe and she loved to talk. I think now that she must have been a rather brilliant talker, for everyone loved to listen to her. She was always lighting her pipe. It worried Mother and she scolded Rachel about it. Mother did not smoke. Walt Davies Monmouth, Or. >> Making Char-Cloth & Punk-Wood Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 11:43:31 -0400 From: Luigi39806@aol.com Subject: Char cloth and 35mm film cans To: black-powder@catnip.berkeley.ca.us BoB: I think the reason the pieces are so small is that big pieces would be "overdone" on the outside when correctly "done" in the middle, or "underdone" on the inside when correctly "done" outside. Cloth doesn't have that problem, because the of cloth thickness, although if you wad too much cloth in the tin, the cloth in the center doesn't get "done"--at least that is my experience. I usually make large quantities of charcloth in the winter. I'm still working on a discarded cotton flannel sheet from a couple of years ago. We heat with a woodstove, so we have a fire going all the time. I still have lots left so I probably won't try the punky wood until later on in the fall. The presenter used a brass firekit box with a hinged lid. He just wanted to show how easily the charred punkwood caught a spark, so he dropped a couple of pinches in the lid of the open firekit box, held the striker & flint over it, and with 2-3 hits, the charred punkwood was glowing. I would think the charred punky wood would also work well using a flintlock. I don't know yet because I'm only on the verge of becoming a flintlock shooter. Using punk wood instead of cloth for charring involves the same process. Take the wood, cut it into smaller pieces, place in metal container with hole, put in fire, watch smoke come out. When no more smoke comes out, turn container so hole is down and let cool. When cool, open container and inspect charred wood. If it is completely black then it's ready to use, if not recover and place back in fire. Repeat as necessary. A friend showed this to me last year and it works great. He went and gathers any kind of rotten wood he can find, chars it and it works great! It's not always as easy to catch a spark as with charred cloth but once it does, watch it go! It seems to last a little longer than cloth does too. Subject: Char cloth & electric ranges To: black-powder@catnip.berkeley.ca.us Steve: I think you would be able to make it in your kitchen. The idea here is to heat the cotton cloth (100% cotton only) in the absence of air. This will drive off volatile elements in the cloth leaving mostly carbon behind. (Its a lot like making charcoal, which you can do in 55gallon drums). --Cut your cloth into squares and put in a metal container --I use an old steel Twinings tea tin. -- Drill or use a nail to put one small hole in the top or side-- it should be small--the idea is to let the gasses escape, but not let air in(which would burn up your cloth)--put it on your stove element--You will probably have to experiment with the setting--I think I might start with medium-high. I would also turn the tin occassionally. --Anyway, you will see a stream of smoke coming out of the hole--when this stops, take the tin off the stove element and place it on some fireproof pad with the hole side down to prevent air from being sucked into the tin and burning up your char cloth. --when cool, open and see how the pieces look and work. It takes a bit of experimenting at first to get a feel for the amount of time to leave the tin in the fire(or on the stove). See how well it catches a spark. Overdone cloth turns to powder. Underdone cloth won't catch a spark well. --Let me know how it goes. --Lou ------------------------------ Shooting Techniques Trigger Control The big trick to controlling a set trigger is in learning the right grip. Do not wrap your thumb around the stock as you would with a normal single trigger. Instead, support your hand by placing your thumb against the right side of the stock and bracing your middle finger against the trigger guard (or on the trigger guard spur if your gun has one). This leaves your index finger more or less free-floating, and you can handle a surprisingly light set trigger. Flintlocks-Ignition Subject: Flintlock pistols To: black-powder@catnip.berkeley.ca.us Emmett, On the color of your flints, I have read that French gun flint is yellow \ amber color. Perhaps this is what you have. On positioning the flint, I have found that the bevel being up or down doesn't make much difference on big musket locks. However, some sources say the best position for the bevel is the one that has the point of the flint most directly pointing to the touch hole when the cock is down in the open pan. Greg Kershul ORGANIZATIONS National Organizations American Long Rifle Association G.L. Jones, Captain,ALRA P.O. Box Mathews, VA 23109 Publication: ALRA Gazette Dave Wade, Editor Box 24 Elwood, NE 68937. American Single Shot Rifle Association (10/24/95) (Primarily BPCR) Gary Staup, Sec. 709 Carolyn Drive Delphos, OH 45833 (419) 692-3866 Publication: ASSRA News Charlie Dell 950 Den Hill Road Christiansburg, VA 24073 (703) 382-2245 Current ASSRA president (03/19/96) National Muzzleloading Rifle Association (NMLRA) (Sanction local, regional, national matches) P.O. Box 67 Dept. BW Friendship, IN 47021 Members: @25,000 Chartered Clubs: @300 Publication: Muzzle Blasts NSSA (North-South Skirmish Association) 9700 Royerton Dr. Richmond, VA 23228 804-266-0898 members: 3400 regional groups: 12 local groups: 210 publication: Skirmish Line, bimonthly Blue Mountain Muzzleloading Club c/o James Ulrich, Jr. 717-665-5884 Information Resources Publications Books DBI Books, Inc. Dept. L386 4092 Commercial Ave. Northbrook, IL 60062 Publishers of many firearms-related titles, including: The Complete Black Powder Handbook, by Sam Fadala Guide to all aspects of Black Powder shooting. Good beginner's book. Black Powder Loading Manual, by Sam Fadala Thoroughly tested load information for over 150 models of black powder rifles and pistols. Black Powder Hobby Gunsmithing, by Dale Storey and Sam Fadala Good resource guide for potential kit-builders and budding BP gunsmiths. Prairie Wolf POB 96 Randolph, KS 66554. John McPherson's books A series in both book and videotape that address Primitive Wilderness Skill building, (Brain Tan Buck- skin Fire and Cordage/Primitive Bow and Arrow/ Tools/Shelter etc.) Reasonably Priced SPG Lubricant's BP Cartridge Reloading Primer by Mike Venturino and Steve Garbe 116 pages, 60 photos, charts, detailed load info $19.95 + $2.00 S&H To order: SPG Lubricant Box 761 Livingston, MT 59047 (406)222-8416 Wolf's Western Traders 40 E. Works, #3F Sheridan, WY 82801 (307)674-5352 Good book re: Original loading techniques for .45-70 World-Wide Web sites Anvil Shooting (02/06/96) http://www.ior.com/~mikej/anvils.html Blackpowder Shooter's Resource Guide - http://www.sky.net/~bfinch/blackpdr.htm Elephant Black Powder. http://quasar.fastlane.net/~petro/ Jas. Townsend & Son, Inc., (On-line catalog of 18th & 19th C. clothing and accessories) http://www.jastown.com/townsend/ or http://www.garlic.com/townsend/ Montain-Man Homepage (10/23/95) http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/amm.html http://www.sky.net/~bfinch/blackpdr.htm Muzzleloader Magazine - http://darkstar.swsc.k12.ar.us/~msperry/muzzle/ Pre-1840's Buckskinning - http://www.duc.auburn.edu/~kerrlin/craig.html Reliable Tents & Tipis - http://www.mcn.net/~reliable/ Saskatchewan Black Powder Association http://www.wbm.ca/wilderness Shooter's News Magazine John Gammuto, Editor - http://home.navisoft.com/snj/mag ???? http://www.zianet.com/files/bus/sst/tsp.html http://www.zianet.com/files/bus/sst/casa.html List-Serv sites Black-Powder Internet Mailing List Moderated: No Submission Address: black-powder@catnip.berkeley.ca.us