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Low Down and Dirty with Dogs:
Practical Techniques for Curbing Dangerous Dogs


This article is written for anyone who may find themselves confronted by a dangerous dog, be it wild, civilian owned, or a military/police pooch. These techniques work! But don't use them unless you have to. Laws presently favor humans over dogs. Little sympathy is currently given to dog owners who allow or let their dogs run loose to terrorize motorists, pedestrians or other dogs. However, in our sue-happy world even defending yourself may cause you legal trouble from an enraged dog owner. Furthermore, dimwitted animal rights fanatics are persuading some cities, towns, and states to pass laws that give animals almost as much legal protection as humans. Check the laws in your area! My advice to those forced to destroy dogs using the methods below is to remain as anonymous as the situation will allow.

Dogs can attack or menace you because of a number of factors. They are either trained to be mean to you, they are sick/nuts, or you are invading their turf. In the case of trained dogs, some are trained to "pin" you in the area where they find you, while others are trained to simply chomp your butt. Nature and breeding has lent Dobermans and Border Collies (and mixes thereof) to being pinners. They’ll let you into an area but won't let you out. Shepherds, Rottweilers, "Pit" Bull Mastiffs and the like will usually try to bite you and hold on. Sick/nutty dogs are uncategorizable, as are dogs whose turf is invaded. Under these circumstances even the smallest Yorkshire Terrier will think it's Cujo.

Evolution has made most dogs’ skeletal systems a suit of armor and they have a high threshold for pain. Whichever defense method is decided upon, explosively violent physical effort must be used, and you must be prepared to keep it up until the dog is seriously injured or dead. Note that the dog is far less dangerous if allowed to make contact on its first charge. If it falls off or is merely deterred, it will be more cautious and alert. Throughout their life, viciously aggressive dogs have been allowed to succeed. Such pre-programmed confidence emboldens the dog to overcome obstacles. Give it the chance to "win" by seeming to allow it to bite and grab you, then destroy it.

If the situation allows it, try to run away from an aggressive dog if you can--although this can sometimes further aggravate pinning dogs. Try yelling at the dog in an authoritative voice, using lots of eye contact. This may work on dogs that are "all bark and no bite", but will only enrage a truly gnarly junkyard-type dog.

When menaced by a vicious dog that tries to herd you by encirclement, immediately shoot it at least twice in the neck with a large caliber (.40 caliber and up) handgun. Be ready to follow up with additional shots as required. If a dog is barking, snapping, and inching closer to you, shoot straight down its throat. Allowing the dog to bite the end of your pistol would be ideal, but if using a semi-auto, care must be taken that this does not move the slide back, causing the gun to go "out of battery" and failing to fire.

Hmmmm. Have the socialist do-gooders in your area taken away your ability to defend yourself with a firearm? Here’s an alternative for you. First, pad the lower part of your weak arm using a belt, scarf, or coat. Allow the dog to clamp on to this area of padding. Then try shoving a long knife or sharpened stake under the dog's lower ribcage up into its lungs, aiming from rear to front. Or, stick your thumb and middle fingers deep into its eye sockets the way you would pick up a 10-pin bowling ball. Blind the dog.

Next to a firearm, the following method is the most effective if it’s available. Pad as above. Run towards the nearest swimming pool, pond, river or ditch that has water above your groin, or is at least slightly deeper than the dog is tall. The water must not be dangerously swift or above your chest--you must be able to stand on the bottom while the dog must be obliged to swim. Allow the dog to grip the padding. Jump into the water and force the dog's head under until it drowns. Under no circumstance should you let the dog go! If it releases its grip, grab it by the collar or scruff of the neck and continue holding its head under water. If the dog is allowed to get to shore it will hold you captive in the water.

Another move, called the "wishbone" or "crucifix", is useful if you’re rescuing somebody from an attack. It goes as follows: get into a position where you are standing with the dog between your legs as if you were going to ride it like a small pony. Quickly reach down and grab its two front paws and pull them out and away from its body while simultaneously driving one of your knees (or your chest) onto the dog's back at the shoulder. This should dislocate one or possibly both of its front legs. This same move can be applied from the front of the animal. However, doing so will bring the dog's face closer to yours, possibly allowing it to bite your face.

Remember; self-defense is not just a right. It is an instinct.


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